Summer has come and gone and i’m a season behind my blog! I also just spent the last hour writing and promptly deleted it by mistake. Maybe a blessing in disguise for all of you reading… as it will be much shorter and less cluttered than the first go!
We wrapped up the 7th grade mid June with Savannah finishing with high honors. We both welcomed the summer break and decided that a trip to Missouri would be our first adventure!
Normally when i mention MO “The show me state” one thinks of plains, farms and pretty bleak country that borders Kansas. I tend to think of rivers, mountains, bluffs, lakes, hiking, waterfalls, springs, mills, trees and hills. The Ozark Mountains are a secret to most and a jewel to those that know.
Our initial trip was to head straight to Dawt Mill and paddle the Norfolk of the White River, part of the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. Due to inclement weather and a mild detour we headed first to the Buffalo River in Ponca, AR, also part of the Ozark National Scenic Riverways.
Just the drive alone in Northern Arkansas was exceptional. Steep,narrow, winding roads made it white knuckle RV with Jeep in tow kind of driving! We eventually unhooked and drove the jeep separate for safety.
The Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca was very helpful with river information, shuttles and where we could camp with a 31ft RV. The area in general is not very accommodating for a big rig. Best to be done the “real”way.. a truck, cooler, tent and canoe. 😉 We stayed in a family owned and operated horse camp with a few sites, along with horse stalls and complementary, homemade moonshine!
We arrived mid morning since we chose to spend the night in Little Rock just before dark such that we could take in the sights and challenging roads with rested eyes and daylight. We pretty much hit the ground running after getting camp made and headed down to the Outdoor center. First class operation, made you feel like you were in Montana or Colorado. Beautiful log cabin type building, outdoor gear, front porch with canoers and rafters alike eating lunch from the deli. The river was running high and swift and only “experienced canoists” were allowed. They were hesitant on our SUP’s but we assured them it would be fine. It had been 25 years since i had run the river as a child and i remember it being challenging and intimidating. When they saw we were taking our 13 y/o daughter i thought they were going to pull the plug on the shuttle… but i assured them she was a water girl.
We decided on the Ponca bridge put-in down to Kyles landing, about 28.4 river miles with tumbling rapids and towering cliffs.
At the put-in the river smells were intoxicating and you literally put in on a class II with some through brush navigation. There were several locals putting in and taking off totally “geared up” in their duckies.. this was the only time i was like.. uh ohhh what have i gotten us in to now?!
I went first, then Savannah, then Jim… all good. The first bend opened up, very swift muddy water but the most incredible tall and magnificent canyon walls towered above us. I did not remember this as a child! Normally when you see things again with adult eyes everything appears smaller, but this was on the contrary. The outfitter told us some marks to look for where you could stop and hike the “Hemmed-In Hollow Trail”. It was easy to find with the pile of canoes. It’s a 1300 ft drop if you take the hike from the road, so hiking in from the river was absolutely gorgeous and the waterfall that awaited us is the largest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians. Along the way were cascading smaller water features. Stunning in every way.
The river presented a few paddling challenges, and there were definitely some thrilling sections. The logs and brush were the real danger areas but easily navigable. The river was an absolute blast flowing as swift as she was. A lot of the rapids were healthy class II’s with funky eddies since a lot of the normal erratic’s were underwater. The sounds and smells were unsurpassed, hands down some of the most beautiful paddling to date.
Topping the paddle off was having our jeep waiting for us at Kyle’s Landing, then driving up a steep, unpaved 3 mile mountain road between Jasper and Ponca!
We headed back to base camp where we met up with Grandma holding down the fort! She decided to drive down and meet up with us. After some local moonshine and cast iron dinner by the moonlight we talked ol’ Grandma into going down the river with us in a 4man raft!!! I think I was more nervous about this than letting my 13 y/o navigate it on a sup. I had never personally drove a raft!
Well.. let me tell you. The four of us drove that raft like pros! We even did coordinated 360’s in the middle of the white water! Of course intentional! 😉
Following rafting we spent two days hiking numerous trails together. The first hike was on the “Lost Valley Trail” (2.3 miles round trip). Rated an SSS trail “special scenic spot” this little area is one of the special places in the world according to our Buffalo River hiking guide handbook. The trail is short and relatively flat until the end, but I have to agree that it is truly special. The trail begins by crossing over the Clark Creek (which eventually empties into the Buffalo River). This is the creek that the trail follows up into it’s headwaters. Lovely stroll that passes through sweet gums, cedars and giant beeches. Then you cross over the creek again with huge stone blocks, called the “jig saw blocks”, looks like they fell off the bluff behind them. Then you cross over a natural bridge with multiple watering holes and waterfalls. Continue and you find yourself standing at the base of a 200ft bluff, and Cob Cave. There is a giant overhang at the base of the bluff. It is named for corncobs that were found there many years ago left by Indians. At the far end of this spot is the Eden Falls, which is a spectacular waterfall. Then you have the Eden Falls Cave with the Clark Creek flowing out of it. Jim and Savannah made the not so easy crawl to get back into the cave. It opens up into a 35ft waterfall inside a pitch dark chamber. I personally attempted the “crawl” but claustrophobia overcame. So I kept Grandma company while Daddy and Daughter explored!
After this hike we took a scenic drive to Jasper and hiked the “famous” 3.6 mile “Round Top Mountain” hike. It’s rated one of the most scenic trails in Arkansas, and also there is a some rare history to go with hit: the remains of a WWII era bomber that crashed in 1948. We all agreed this hike was not impressive and down right spooky. We followed this hike with lunch in the quaint little down town of Jasper, Ark with some antique window shopping. Headed back to camp and fished in the pond and lit the bbq…
Before breaking camp to head to Dawt Mill, MO (next blog) Jim and I left Grandma and Savannah at camp decided to run a trail just on the other side of where we were staying, the “Center Point Trail”. Due to the rain it was very wet, muddy, with a steep gradient that eventually joined up with the Hemmed–in Hollow trail. It starts out as a wider horse trail, then down to a narrow single track with steep gradient of 1300 ft. We were a few miles into the trail with Jim running slightly ahead of me. Of course we ARE in black bear country and we did NOT bring our bear spray. (you know where this is going…..) Jim goes around a blind corner and I literally ran into the back of him with an enormous, very healthy back bear staring right back at us with the same level of “oh shit”.. ok so you’re not supposed to run if you are having a stand off with a bear 50 yards away, but YOU try just standing there. About the time we booked the other way, the bear also booked. Thankfully not in our direction. Jim and I ran literally like a bear was chasing us up a steep gradient, tripping, laughing and scared shitless! We stopped, listened and high tailed it back to camp. Saw two other hikers and warned them. They were local, and looked at us like we were full of baloney. Back to the bear.. out of all the hiking we did in “bear country” out in the west, this was our fist encounter out in the wild. The bears we saw on our trip were guided “bear trips”… for some reason those guides make you feel fearless of the bear!
These couple of days on the Buffalo with my family were probably some of the top 10 moments to date of my life.
We broke camp and headed to Dawt Mill….. next blog entry.
Here is the link to the video of paddling the river and photos below! https://youtu.be/sbUUJA2WQ_s
A little history and fascinating geological reading: “Buffalo River Handbook” by Kenneth L. Smith and the “Buffalo River Hiking Trails” by Tim Ernest. Excellent reads.

