Zodiac ride through the turmoil waters of the upper passages, grizzly bears in the bush, and amphibious mail run overhead the North West Passage, one room school rooms…
Who says you can’t have fun while being sick? By taking out the manic exercise and hiking, I could manage 3 hr zodiac boat rides in full artic survival suit. It was the next best thing from being fed chicken soup and swaddled by your Mum!
The waters here must truly be respected as I mentioned in an earlier blog about my paddling experience. Zipping through the Northwest passage on a yellow zodiac through some narrow and frightening passages proved to be one heck of a thrill! We skirted giant whirlpools, and current lines, while taking in the incredible landscape, dotted with the occasional multi million dollar home or the small shack occupied by the hippy living off the grid.
A great, but very dry read on the area from a sailors point of view is the “Passage to Juneau” by ????? Read this years ago and may need to re-read after spending time up here.
We stopped briefly on our zodiac adventure on Stuart Island for a sandwich and coffee in a quiet little community marina, then off again to our final destination of Butte Inlet. Riding up the inlet, Savannah was fascinated by a Chinook helicopter ascending steeply up the mountain with a steel cable and log claw dangling underneath like an eagle’s talon. It would clamp down on a huge log and swiftly crank down the mountain in high speeds such to stay faster than the free falling log. She would then gently release the log into the water where the rest of the crew would bundle the timber and put them in log enclosed raft-like structure that would then be towed by a tugboat to the nearest lumber processing plant. Big and impressive business up here.
Once arriving to Butte Inlet, home of the “Homalco” Indians, we piled into a VERY small bus WITH our survival suits on WITH 6 other people WITH their suits.. I looked back at Jim in the back row and he was totally having a claustrophobic moment and stripping down. Haha We then were dropped at a small outpost to remove the suits, use the facility and get then get on another bus! The roads were extremely rough, bumpy and muddy from the logging trucks and equipment.
Our guide said the bear sitings had been good the past few weeks, but we would be lucky to see one.. if we saw more than one that was a “good day”.. but no guarantees .. “after all we are in the wild”.. I’m thinking.. g r e a t, I’m with fever, surviving off Tylenol and just want to lay down and you’re telling me we won’t see bears?? The first post we stopped at.. no bears so we moved on. Second post, again, no beers. By this time I’m thinking, man this will be the most expensive nap I’ve ever taken. By the third stop we hit the bear lottery.
I could probably write 10 pages on just the bears alone. We saw 18 bears in a 2 hr span. Only about 25 bears inhabitant that particular area. However the fish spawn this time of the year, then die, giving the bears an excellent food source for their final meals preparing for winter hibernation and pregnant mamas.
The first set of bears were a Mama and her 3 cubs. Typically it’s a Mum and only 2 cubs, so seeing her with 3 was something very special. About 10 minutes later ANOTHER mama and her THREE cubs appear. The two Mom’s gave each other a bit of stink eye but both backed down and ate their salmon in peace from a modest distance away from each other. The first family decided to later leave the area. Cubs were on one side of us gawking tourists, and the Mama decided to walk the OTHER way. We were officially between a Mom and her cubs… not exactly what the “what to do if you encounter a bear book suggests..” I’m of course not sick all of a sudden and snapping away about 300 photos a second like the paparazzi! (along with our guide/owner and his mama jama camera) The Mom walked all around our bus as we stood our ground, then joined up with her brood and continued on her way, cubs in tow. You’ll see that photo below. They did not go far, just a little down stream where you’ll see a photo of the Mum leading her cubs down a log. Spectacular.
In the meantime I guess the other set of cubs and their Mum also had their share of salmon and decided to take a siesta! All four of them groomed and sprawled out on the river banks, basking in the filtered light of the forest for a big bear nap.
Then we have Papa bear make his presence… he didn’t not see the other Mom and her cubs fishing away, and was happily and obliviously making his way up the river. The cubs actually got wind of him first, then Mama bear. She made a few grunts, but old Papa bear must have been hard of hearing as he kept heading towards the cubs. I’m like great. I really don’t want to see this………
He hopped over the log, Mama stood up on her hinds and man that dude took one look at the Mama and booked out there so fast! (they must be Ex’s or something..? ) He only exited the area a few hundred feet down stream and began fishing. He kept his face buried deeply into the water peering and pawing around for salmon. All the while strutting around on a log showing off his masculine physique. He was certainly handsome and charming.
We saw several more bears along the way and always stopped. That being said our tour on land was longer than anticipated and we still had a 2hr boat ride ahead of us. We arrived just before dusk to our home for the week…www.brownsbayresort.com Great adventure trip and I would recommend to anyone if they’re in the area! www.eagleeyeadventures.com
We were greeted on the dock by an awaiting Esther! She and Brent have bent over backwards and gone beyond the call of duty to make sure out stay has been utterly perfect. Needless to say she was as stoked as we were upon hearing of all the bear sitings! We then headed up the hill where she had prepared dinner and we had a lovely evening.. I could get used to this!
The adventures continued into the next day. Still feeling under the weather I could not pass up the mail run on a float plane ride! Are you kidding me? I was grinning like a little school kid on Christmas morning. This was more than just a flight.. much more.
My father’s life long dream was to become a bush pilot in Alaska. After reading through some of his letters to my Mom and his parents many years ago… he mentions the flying several times. He did not pursue this dream until much later in life, when he became not only just a licensed private pilot but also an aircraft owner! I’d like to say I inspired him in some ways, since I made an aviation career jetting around before settling down….
In 2007 my father crashed his beloved plane and both he and the plane were critically totaled… All due to an improperly crimped aileron cable, which caused the aircraft to fly out of control. His final moments were in the woods near a monastery site. If you knew my father, this would have been a fine place for a funeral….
So this flight was in honor of my Dad. I have not been up in a small plane since going up with him years ago and having him show off his skills to me. He was a good stick and sharp pilot. Too bad the guy that worked on his plane didn’t possess the same talents.
The mail flight, a Cessna 185 modified with floats, made 3 water takeoffs and landings. Absolutely spectacular, just the thrill of flight, landing and taking off in the water and docking a plane was almost sensory overload for this girl! The smell of aviation gas, Savannah’s smile, and Jim’s white knuckling were also some serious entertainment! We flew over seals basking on rocks, the maze of kelp, fishing boats, gunk holing boats and gorgeous clear water with little islands dotted like freckles on a smile child’s cheeks. One of the stops was pulling up to the only floating post office in Canada (photo below with the green po boxes) at Surge Narrows on Read Island. A remote island to say the least. The inhabitants survive off the land, with propane, generators and river turbines for power. The Pilot was kind enough to let us walk up the hill to visit the one room classroom that happened to be in session. The 12 kids only attend school 3 days a week. He said to just let ourselves in. Wasn’t sure if the teacher was going to come out with her rifle and scoot us on our way or what. The door did have a sign that read, “please leave your dog on the leash while in the classroom”… The “one room school room” was actually pretty nice. We entered into the “mud room” where all the kids shoes and packs were removed and hanging. Loved seeing the life vest hanging on the wall, as apparently one child travels a good bit by boat. Her mother drives her to school 3 days a week in all sorts of weather and water conditions year round. Her husband travels 5 weeks at a time leaving this Mum and kid to fend for themselves in the back country. In my book this woman is a stud. The gymnasium was to our left and enclosed with huge log beams and had a gorgeous wood, full length basketball court. To our right were several large rooms and the sounds of kid’s voices. Three teachers were present and beyond friendly, they promptly stowed the rifles and gave us a look around with open arms. The kids sort of just stared at Savannah and Savannah just sort of stared back, very interesting exchange. The school was being powered up by propane generators. You could hear them purring on the walk up to the schoolroom. The 12 kids ranged in age and were currently working on some crafting. What a life these families must lead. By the end of our visit, 2 of the girls that were Savannah’s age apparently did not want us to leave, they were so intrigued by our presence. I didn’t want to leave either! But the pilot was on a schedule, so we had to get on our way, but not with out taking off with our post cards for my Mom and Jim’s parents as part of the mail delivery! J
After our final landing I got out and kissed the dock… lol and we then made our way into Campbell River for some light provisioning, after all was my turn to surprise Esther with dinner at her house! She wasn’t expected home until after 7pm (judo and soccer for the boys) so we cooked up the rest of Savannah’s salmon and had another feast and great conversation on top of the hill at Browns Bay.
